The Pink Gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak That Turned A Devout Yellow Gold Loyalist Into An Equal Opportunist
2024-04-03
There are certain aesthetic decisions that exist as anomalies – fashion choices committed with a flagrant disregard for any preconceived ideas of wardrobe logic or inherent style instincts. These choices can only be categorized as instant (material) attraction. This lapse in sartorial judgment boils down to a je ne sais quoi, a zing, an I-knew-the-second-I-met-you feeling. In French, they call it un coup de foudre, which translates directly to "a strike of lightning," which I'm not sure I felt when I first held this new rose gold Royal Oak, but I felt a baby jolt of adrenaline. That's a lot to feel on your "first date" with a watch.
These less calculated, more go-with-your-gut wardrobe decisions happen to me periodically. I feel the need to explain this because, well, how else do I explain the reason a staunch yellow gold lover like me would even pick up a fully rose gold watch off the tray, let alone write an entire article about a new rose gold Royal Oak?
My abhorrence towards pinkish hues of gold has, over the past two years, softened into a mild distaste. Rose gold feels like that tiny accidental piece of citrus pith I can politely tolerate, swallow, and deal with; bitter but not overwhelmingly blistering. I have learned to like vintage rose gold, because a pink-on-pink ref. 1518 is a superior breed of rose. Vintage rose gold is pale and soft. Modern rose gold often feels brash and gaudy. I can, of course, admire the look of a rose gold Rolex ref. 6062, but I'll pass on the rose gold Panthère or Everose Day date, thanks. According to my Swiss watch media counterparts, rose gold is the hue of choice on the continent. They dismiss yellow as "granny gold."
Back here in my little NYC bubble, yellow gold is the undefeated champion of the 18-35-year-old contingent. Likely because it ties in with whatever #aesthetic is trending on TikTok (see mob-wife aesthetic), but also because NYC has always been a yellow gold mecca. Just take a trip to Canal Street, or 47th Street, and look at the fading photographic homages to '90s and '00s rap music superstars – adorned 90% of the time in yellow gold. It's a yellow gold lifestyle by way of Tito the Jeweler's chains for Biggie Smalls, teenage girls wearing nameplate necklaces, and women adorned in giant door-knocker earrings and gold nugget rings – all of these being important references baked into New York City's jewelry culture.
When I am presented with a rose gold novelty, my eyes can't help but glaze over. It's just not for me or my fashion-loving cohort. It doesn't have the glamor of the 1970s (Elsa Peretti), the opulence of the '80s (Bulgari-laden Sharon Stone in Casino), or the cool confidence of the '90s (Run-DMC Dookie rope chains). Yellow gold fever amongst my peers prevails, and I see no signs of it changing in the near future.
Now for a pink gold (or rose gold, or whatever you wanna call it because that's a whole debate unto itself) plot twist! Earlier this week I took a little trip to AP house to preview their newest novelties. I went in hot for the 37mm frosted yellow gold with smoked dial. I proceeded to try it on and did my usual press breakfast routine: take a million pictures of the same watch on my wrist while chasing the light around the room – ultimately resulting in a pretty generic here-is-my-hottest-novelty-pick for Instagram photo that 20 other people will also post that same day.
Excerpt from: Hodinkee
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